A Collimation Method - Multiple Defocused Star Technique
This method of collimation is suited to
Schmidt Cassegrain style telescopes (or "SCT"), with one
adjustable mirror [secondary mirror] and one fixed mirror
[primary mirror]. See the image below for a basic layout...

Fig 1.
One mirror
adjustment refers to the secondary mirror being adjustable,
and the primary mirror being fixed. To some extent this
method will work for systems with adjustable primary mirrors
too, however some iterations of the process is necessary and
will not be explained here.
To say the least, this is a very simple
method, with no analysis software required that measures
FWHM, mirror tilt, field flatness, etc... If you feel
inclined to do these measurements, you can do a before and
after sample to check what the result was. All you need is
you normal capture software to make the analysis and
changes.
I guess many people are familiar with the
single defocused star technique for collimating a telescope,
and I admit this multiple defocused star technique is a
clear variant of that approach. If you are not familiar to
using the single defocused star technique, it involves the
centring of a single bright star upon your field of view [or
FOV], then you defocus the star to make a large donut shape
like shown below.

Fig 2.
To correct your collimation, you adjust the
tilt of the secondary mirror until that star appears nice
and concentric [as shown above]. Some people expand the
process by moving the defocused star into the four corners
of their FOV to see if the star remains concentric at all
positions [to try and ensure flatness across their FOV], see
below...

Fig 3. Four separate
images, placing the defocused star at each point to gauge
FOV flatness
But there is a problem with this approach, in
that you cannot easily check that the collimation centre
point is centre to your FOV, as you are only taking images
of a single defocused star at one time. In fact, you may
later find that the collimation point is off centre. This
means, the stars in that off centre position are most round,
and then stars to the opposing side of the FOV will be more
out of collimation. The above image (Fig 3) also assumes you
have a near perfectly flat field, meaning that wherever you
place the star, it will appear nice and concentric. Well,
most telescopes will not have this luxury, unless you are
using a relatively small pixel camera to the telescopes
imaging circle. For example, the flatness of an image taken
with a GSO 10" RC and a camera with the KAF8300 chip will be
flatter than one taken with the KAI11002M chip.

Fig 4.
Collimation of
a telescope can be a challenging task, especially for
astrophotography with the precision required. You really
need to do the collimation through your camera to get it
right. Using alternate methods should be finally done with
the camera of your choice through your telescope. I know
some are happy with visually doing their collimation, so
that is their choice.
After trying many methods, some using
software to assist, I found a simple answer was to image an
open cluster with the stars defocused. Then analysing the
images to detect if the centre collimation point existed in
the FOV. With the open cluster nicely centred in your FOV,
you need to take a 10-20sec exposure to illuminate the
defocused stars sufficiently at say 4x4 binning. You will
need to test for the right exposure length, but just make
sure not to over saturate the defocused stars. The aim is to
have a nice spread of stars evenly illuminated across your
FOV. Between adjustments of the secondary mirror, you need
to make sure you allow your telescope sufficient time to
settle before reviewing the next image. Immediately you can
see where the current collimation point is, as the central
collimation point will be represented by defocused stars
being concentric, whilst the surrounding stars will point to
this central point, elongating towards the central point.
See the image below, taken with a STL-11000 on a Planewave
12.5...

Fig 5.
Click on to enlarge
Just to reiterate that even on a very flat
fielded scope like a Planewave, you can see stars across the
field are not all concentric. It is easily definable where
the central collimation point is, and I have marked it out
on the following image..

Fig 6.
Click on to enlarge
The idea now is to move this centre point of
collimation to the centre of the FOV. Here you will have to
experiment to see how the image moves when you alter your
secondary collimation screws. What I did, was that I made a
guide sheet to help me remember what way the image moves
when I move my screws in or out (your camera must be in the
same orientation every time relative to the top of the
optical tube). It makes future adjustments faster to
complete. See mine below...

Fig 7.
Click on to enlarge
Every time you make an adjustment to the tilt
of your secondary mirror, you need to re-centre the open
cluster to your FOV. So keep your mount's hand controller
close at hand while standing at the front of your telescope.
It is therefore also important to be able to see you
computer screen during this process to ensure you are moving
your secondary in the correct direction.
Which way to move the secondary
mirror?
When looking at your first images, you need to
determine where the central collimation point is, and where
it needs to move to? As a simple rule, you need to look at
the defocused stars and their shapes, as this is the key to
which way to tilt your secondary. Look above again to my
guide sheet. Here I have a picture of a defocused star at
the bottom, elongated to the one side. To remove the
elongation, and to get the star concentric, you need to move
the star in the direction of the fat side of the donut (as
indicated in my guide sheet).
Now, you will be faced with stars
elongating in all directions depending on where they are in
your FOV. You need to pay attention to the centre of your
FOV. In MaximDL, you can turn on a cross hair to find this
centre point. Here is where you must study the star shapes.
Make your assessment, which direction the stars must move,
and then set your capture software into continuous capture
mode. From the front of your optical tube, make your
secondary mirror adjustments, and watch which direction the
star pattern moves. Re-centre the open cluster with you
mount controller, confirming position off your computer
screen and the last image taken.
Once the stars have moved a test distance,
check you are going the right direction and how big the
movement was per the adjustment. Then review where the
centre collimation point is. Did it move towards the centre
of the FOV? Using this new information, continue until you
feel confident the centre collimation point is aligned to
the centre of the FOV.
Below is a near correct collimation, with
concentric defocused stars existing at the centre of the
camera's FOV, with outer stars elongating or pointing to
this centre point. I did this quickly, within 10 mins, just
for a demonstration...

Fig 8. Click on to enlarge
How to do the process again...
To make the process a quick procedure, I found that
once you have the telescope on an open cluster, to:
- Angle your computer screen towards the
position you can see it from the front of your telescope
[where you can alter the secondary mirror alignment
screws].
- Set your capture software to capture
consecutively sub exposures of 10-20sec [depending on your
binning rate and your optical system].
- Have your telescope controller close at
hand, so you can realign you image after a movement of the
secondary, as it is important to keep the stars reasonably
well spread across the FOV.
- It is good to save you images to a set
directory so you can analyse these once you have finished.
- At the end of the process, refocus the
telescope and image the open cluster at critical focus to
see if stars are nicely pin point across the FOV.
- If all looks good, you are finished.
Lastly, seeing conditions have little
effect on this method. This is a great benefit. Of course,
you should take a number of images just to be sure variation
between shots is acceptable.
So give it a try, I think you'll be
pleasantly surprised.
Steve Mohr